Needles are a key element to sewing. With so many choices in
fabric, it is important to choose the correct needle to complete
your project. It is also important to change your needle often, as
a variety of fabrics contribute to the rapid dulling of the tip.
Ideally, you should change your needle after every two projects.
fabric, it is important to choose the correct needle to complete
your project. It is also important to change your needle often, as
a variety of fabrics contribute to the rapid dulling of the tip.
Ideally, you should change your needle after every two projects.
Parts of a Needle:
Point
eye
Shank
Scarf
Point
eye
Shank
Scarf
The type of point is one of the main differences in needles.
There are many different types to choose from including:
ball-point, knife blade, sharp and universal.
There are many different types to choose from including:
ball-point, knife blade, sharp and universal.
The hole through which the thread passes.
The body of the needle that is inserted into the machine
The indentation at the back of the needle around the eye.
Needle Sizing:
Needles are available in sizes ranging from 60 to 120 and should
be used according to the types of fabric being sewn.
Type of Fabric Size
Lightweight Fabrics 60/7-65/9-70/10
Mediumweight fabrics 70/10-80/12-90/14-100/16
Heavyweight fabrics 10016-110/18-120/20
Needles are available in sizes ranging from 60 to 120 and should
be used according to the types of fabric being sewn.
Type of Fabric Size
Lightweight Fabrics 60/7-65/9-70/10
Mediumweight fabrics 70/10-80/12-90/14-100/16
Heavyweight fabrics 10016-110/18-120/20
How a stitch is formed
The formation of a stitch begins
when the needle penetrates the
fabric and descends to its lowest
point.
The bobbin hook then slides by
the needle's scarf, catching the
upper thread, and carries it
around the bobbin and bobbin
thread.
The thread is then pulled up into
the fabric, completing the stitch.
The formation of a stitch begins
when the needle penetrates the
fabric and descends to its lowest
point.
The bobbin hook then slides by
the needle's scarf, catching the
upper thread, and carries it
around the bobbin and bobbin
thread.
The thread is then pulled up into
the fabric, completing the stitch.
Standard needles
The configuration of these needles is based on the particular fabric to be sewn.
Universal needle
Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics.
Configuration: Has slightly rounded point and elongated scarf to enable almost foolproof meeting of needle and bobbin hook.
Troubleshooting: When fabric is not medium-weight woven, consider needle specifically suited to fabric. For example, size 18
universal needle works on heavy denim, but size 18 jeans needle works better.
Ballpoint and stretch needles
Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser sweater knits; stretch needle for highly elastic fabrics, like
Spandex, or Lycra.
Configuration: Both have rounded points that penetrate between fabric threads rather than pierce them. (Stretch-needle
point is slightly less rounded than ballpoint.)
Troubleshooting: Test-stitch knits with ballpoint, stretch, and universal needles to see which doesn't cut yarn and yields best
results. If ballpoint skips stitches, try stretch needle.
Microtex and sharp needles
Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic leather; precisely stitching edges; and heirloom sewing.
Configuration: Has an acute point.
Troubleshooting: Essentially trouble-free, but fabric may require a Teflon, roller, or even/dual-feed presser foot.
Leather needle
Uses: Excellent for sewing natural leather.
Configuration: Has slight cutting point (almost like an arrowhead).
Troubleshooting: On synthetic leather, unless it's very heavy synthetic, cuts rather than pierces stitch hole and can tear
leather. Most synthetic leathers require Microtex or sharp needle.
Denim (jeans) needle
Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck, canvas, upholstery fabrics, artificial leather, and vinyl.
Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute point, and modified shaft to sew without pushing fabric down into needle-plate hole.
Goes through fabric and meets bobbin hook better on dense woven fabrics.
Troubleshooting: If stitches skip when sewing very heavy fabrics, try larger needle and sew more slowly or walk needle through
fabric (by turning hand crank).
Handicap/self-threading needle
Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers with vision problems.
Configuration: Universal needle with slip-in threading slot at the eye.
Troubleshooting: Always pull sewn piece back away from needle before cutting thread so needle doesn't unthread. Needle
works well on woven fabrics, but may occasionally snag knits, so test-sew to check for fabric and needle compatibility.
The configuration of these needles is based on the particular fabric to be sewn.
Universal needle
Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics.
Configuration: Has slightly rounded point and elongated scarf to enable almost foolproof meeting of needle and bobbin hook.
Troubleshooting: When fabric is not medium-weight woven, consider needle specifically suited to fabric. For example, size 18
universal needle works on heavy denim, but size 18 jeans needle works better.
Ballpoint and stretch needles
Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser sweater knits; stretch needle for highly elastic fabrics, like
Spandex, or Lycra.
Configuration: Both have rounded points that penetrate between fabric threads rather than pierce them. (Stretch-needle
point is slightly less rounded than ballpoint.)
Troubleshooting: Test-stitch knits with ballpoint, stretch, and universal needles to see which doesn't cut yarn and yields best
results. If ballpoint skips stitches, try stretch needle.
Microtex and sharp needles
Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic leather; precisely stitching edges; and heirloom sewing.
Configuration: Has an acute point.
Troubleshooting: Essentially trouble-free, but fabric may require a Teflon, roller, or even/dual-feed presser foot.
Leather needle
Uses: Excellent for sewing natural leather.
Configuration: Has slight cutting point (almost like an arrowhead).
Troubleshooting: On synthetic leather, unless it's very heavy synthetic, cuts rather than pierces stitch hole and can tear
leather. Most synthetic leathers require Microtex or sharp needle.
Denim (jeans) needle
Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck, canvas, upholstery fabrics, artificial leather, and vinyl.
Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute point, and modified shaft to sew without pushing fabric down into needle-plate hole.
Goes through fabric and meets bobbin hook better on dense woven fabrics.
Troubleshooting: If stitches skip when sewing very heavy fabrics, try larger needle and sew more slowly or walk needle through
fabric (by turning hand crank).
Handicap/self-threading needle
Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers with vision problems.
Configuration: Universal needle with slip-in threading slot at the eye.
Troubleshooting: Always pull sewn piece back away from needle before cutting thread so needle doesn't unthread. Needle
works well on woven fabrics, but may occasionally snag knits, so test-sew to check for fabric and needle compatibility.
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